How do I remove and clean an EGR valve for a Hi, I have a 2000 Saturn SL1 and I'm told that I need to replace it's ignition control module and two associated coils as well. Is this easy to do? I'm not sure what the coils are but the control module is way less than half online to buy direct than through my mechanic (300+).

Any advice on how to do this myself as well as removing and cleaning the EGR valve? I am trying to save save north of $800.00.

Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by sethkonigsbergrn:
How do I remove and clean an EGR valve for a Hi, I have a 2000 Saturn SL1 and I'm told that I need to replace it's ignition control module and two associated coils as well. Is this easy to do? I'm not sure what the coils are but the control module is way less than half online to buy direct than through my mechanic (300+).

Any advice on how to do this myself as well as removing and cleaning the EGR valve? I am trying to save save north of $800.00.

Thanks

do they not have "Chiltons Manuals" anymore in the parts store....... ain't got to buy one, just visit and look it up youself. Or buy one for your vehicle and your good to go from bumper to bumper.

Before you go blowing your hard-earned swag on a new EGR valve take the old one and check out the release port (hole) that sits above the port in the manifold. If it's plugged with carbon, the usual fault, clean it out with a drill bit, don't drill it, just use a bit to scrunge out the hole (clamp it in some visegrips).
Should this work reinstall it and disconnect the battery to clear the fault codes.
If the hole isn't plugged check the vacuum lines and use a vacuum pump to check if the diaphragm works.
If the diaphragm works and the lines are OK there are about a zillion reasons for why the ECU thinks the EGR valve is faulty.
If the valve works and the codes don't come back ("check engine" light stays off) you are home free. If they reset have your mech rerun the codes.
Driveability problems are fun when you are working on somebody else's car for $85 an hour.
Go on-line for the manual

Welcome to the world of "Because of computers, you can't work on your own car any more and we have you over a barrell!" I got a shop load of tools gathering dust. Good luck. I usually just take the thing in and have them change the "extortion module" and get out my wallet - -

Seth, think of it this way: How much will you "save" when you think of time, energy & aggravation & the possibilty that you'll have to go to your mechanic anyhow if you screw it up?

PS, someone mentioned Chilton's. Remember when you bought a car & the immediate purchase after it was the Chilton Manual for that particular car?

quote:

"extortion module"

GWG,,,Ahahah,ahaha,ahahahahahahahah, Thats the best thing I've ever heard them called, you take the cake, I'll never call them anything but that agian,,,,you clever, witty, funny Ol'Grandpa you.
Reminds of this ol guy in Payson AZ at the Ford Dealer there, I was in line to pay my bill behind this ol timer. When he got his bill, he looked down at it, reached inside his pocket and pulled out a handful of marbles, showed the handful of marbles to the manager and said,,,,"I got my marbles....Wheres yours??"
I about fell over laughing but not for to long,,I was next in line to get my bill and I didnt have any marbles.

There's a town called "Payson" just 20 miles south of here, too.

Here's one that took my cake: I had a coolant leak on my Ford Turbo Diesel and finally decided it was the water pump bearing, so I went to Ford to get another one - $500.00!!

Well, I bit my lip, bought it, and changed it out. Not too long after that, the thing needed glow plugs, and they are located under the valve covers. Now, the valve cover gaskets contain the wiring for both the injectors and the glow plugs. I ain't messing with that! So into the shop I go....

When they get it done and call me, I go in and - - they have fixed the glow plugs alright, but they have also replaced the wiring harness on top the motor - AND MY NEW WATER PUMP!!! NEARLY TWO GRAND TO GET MY TRUCK BACK!!

It's running fine now, but if anything else goes wrong with it in the next 10 years, I'm going to shoot it full of holes and set it on fire!

Wow! I'm feeling better now! I just got my service Van back from the Front-end shop; I was driving along when the seals on the Rack/Pinion let go! There is NO idiot light for this one, nor a code so I didn't even realize that all of the p/s fluid was laying on the road behind me and the p/s pump had seized for want of lubrication.

When I came to the first bend in the street (@ 25-mph) I realized "NO POWER STEERING!" Steering was suddenly like trying to rein a dead mule into a sharp turn on an icy hillside!

New Rack and Pinion, new p/s pump and, just for 5hits 'n grins, a new right tie-rod end and ball joint!

Oy!

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quote:

There's a town called "Payson" just 20 miles south of here, too.

My mom lives in Show Low. Named after a game of cards. When you work on high tech vehicles you're gambling too. That's why I drive a '74 F-100. Damn 390 guzzles gas but it's pretty simple.

I bought this Ford Turbo Diesel because I had been working on Cummings engines a lot with the military. Should have looked closer at the International Harvester engine that came in it (1994). NOTHING is even close to the same!

Shoulda got a Dodge!!

seth...... many have offered suggestions to your problems. I suggest you kick the rear tire and then pizz on it. If that doesn't work then I recommend .45 between the running lights.
Just sayin.

quote:

scooter_mech
Experienced Member

Posted Fri 09 October 2009 11:46 PM Hide Post
quote:
There's a town called "Payson" just 20 miles south of here, too.


My mom lives in Show Low. Named after a game of cards. When you work on high tech vehicles you're gambling too. That's why I drive a '74 F-100. Damn 390 guzzles gas but it's pretty simple.

I've been there(Show Low) many, many times Scooter, a great place to be in the summer, Payson too.

Now here's mechanic you can trust!

quote:

Originally posted by greywolfghost:
Welcome to the world of "Because of computers, you can't work on your own car any more and we have you over a barrell!" I got a shop load of tools gathering dust. Good luck. I usually just take the thing in and have them change the "extortion module" and get out my wallet - -

So true GWG. Seth you well be btter off going to the shop on this one. One small screw up could cost you 3 times more for the fix. Sorry bud, thats the world we live in.

I had a Chilton for my old Sammy. That 4x4 was just like working on a M151. I open up the hood and there was just an engine. My daughter's boyfriend and I changed out the 4x4 transfer case in about 4 hours, if it wasn't for my smallish hands it would have taken longer.
"Everyone makes fun of a Redneck til their car breaks down." Of course in my parts its a wetback.

quote:

Originally posted by m551sheridan:

quote:

Originally posted by sethkonigsbergrn:
How do I remove and clean an EGR valve for a Hi, I have a 2000 Saturn SL1 and I'm told that I need to replace it's ignition control module and two associated coils as well. Is this easy to do? I'm not sure what the coils are but the control module is way less than half online to buy direct than through my mechanic (300+).

Any advice on how to do this myself as well as removing and cleaning the EGR valve? I am trying to save save north of $800.00.

Thanks

do they not have "Chiltons Manuals" anymore in the parts store....... ain't got to buy one, just visit and look it up youself. Or buy one for your vehicle and your good to go from bumper to bumper.

Over here Haynes manuals (same company) are always sold wrapped in extra-thick polythene to stop people reading them in the shop.

quote:

Originally posted by scooter_mech:

quote:

There's a town called "Payson" just 20 miles south of here, too.

My mom lives in Show Low. Named after a game of cards. When you work on high tech vehicles you're gambling too. That's why I drive a '74 F-100. Damn 390 guzzles gas but it's pretty simple.

1989 Olds Cutless here. I bought it 5 years ago with only 61,000 miles on it. Now it has about 93,000 miles and still runs like a fine watch. I've replaced the muffler, front brakes and a rear brake cylinder in those five years. I plan on having it painted in the spring and see no reason to buy any other car for the rest of my life.